Shadows of Little Italy

The following was written by investigative journalist Ken Cosentino.

Niagara Falls native Gabriel Porto was a proud Italian-American. His book, aptly titled “Memoirs of an Italian American”, was self published in 2023 on Amazon. As one might suspect, “Memoirs of an Italian American” is Gabriel Porto’s autobiography. Porto was a first generation Italian-American whose parents migrated to the United States in the early twentieth century. Born in 1934, Porto shares with us his memories as an Italian kid growing up in Niagara Falls during a completely different era.

My own Sicilian grandfather Anthony Cosentino was born in Niagara Falls in 1926, three months before his father became an American citizen. He told us many stories about the days when the roads were mostly dirt, farm land was in the middle of the city and horse drawn carriages were being replaced by automobiles. My grandmother Lucia also shared with us her childhood stories. She lived across the street from Sal Maglie who used to play stickball with the neighborhood kids in the middle of the street while she and others watched. 

As a Sicilian-American and lifelong Niagarian, I profoundly enjoyed Porto’s book because it brought to life my own family history. Unlike Porto, my grandparents did not live in Little Italy during its early years. Little Italy is an expansive stretch of Pine Avenue that includes the neighborhoods bordering it on either side. 

Gabriel Porto was born and raised in his family home right across the street from what is now Viola’s Submarines on Elmwood Avenue; right behind the City Market. Prior to 1958, the famous sub shop was a small Italian-owned grocery store called Nicola’s Grocery. Porto recalls how his parents were allowed credit in the store which allowed them to pay their tab at the end of the month. He also describes how Italian immigrants watched out for one another and for each others’ families.

I must admit that I couldn’t put Porto’s book down. So many of his memories echoed the stories that I grew up hearing from my mother and grandparents. In fact, I even knew some of the people mentioned in his book. “Memoirs of an Italian American” should be enshrined and sold in every local store forever. Gabe Porto captured a very important first hand look at an important part of our city’s history and culture. He lived right in the heart of Little Italy during its earliest years.

Nowadays, Little Italy is a remnant of its former self. The disrepair has left it almost unrecognizable. It’s very sad to those of us who know how hard our parents, grandparents and great-grandparents had to work to support their families here. We are very proud of our heritage, our history, our culture and our traditions. Niagara Falls is comprised of many different beautiful and important cultures, but my heritage is closest to my heart. 

Today, very few Italian-owned businesses remain in Little Italy. After owning and operating Como Restaurant for 96 years, the Colucci and Antonacci family heirs no longer wished to continue the family tradition; choosing instead to close Como down in October 2023. It was sold to Mohammad Ujjal Hossain for far less than their original listing price. The owners of Como were among Mayor Restaino’s proudest supporters, advertising his mayoral campaign on the billboard in front of their restaurant and hosting his victory celebration in 2019.

Another Italian-owned staple that was recently forced out of Little Italy was DiCamillo’s Bakery, who permanently closed their Pine Avenue location in 2021 after a string of armed robberies left them with no other choice. Matthew DiCamillo told The Niagara Gazette that the family chose to close “for the protection of our employees.” Thankfully, their other Niagara Falls locations are still open and operating. Also, Italian-owned One-Hour Dry Cleaner recently closed after many decades of loyal service.

Just this year the Save-A-Lot, which was located in the City Market, suddenly closed its doors for good. This move surprised everyone since the City and state have already identified $20 million in funding for rebuilding the City Market. Some say that the closing of Save-A-Lot has now created a food desert for people in the immediate area without transportation who relied on it for groceries.

TOUGHING IT OUT

Tony Poletti’s family owns Marketside Restaurant. Located in the City Market, Marketside is my favorite place in town to enjoy a great breakfast (try “the Sal”). The restaurant was opened sometime between 1936 and 1939, and Tony’s great-grandfather Salvatore Forcucci bought the property in 1900. With the closing of Como Restaurant, Marketside is now the longest family-owned and operating restaurant in the City of Niagara Falls, NY. Their recipes have long since been perfected.

Recently, some of the remaining Italian-American business owners along Pine Avenue wanted the Little Italy arches taken down. Tony disagrees; telling me, “I feel quite strongly that the arches remain, it was dedicated to the Italian immigrants who built every structure in this part of the city. To tear them down because the state of disrepair it is currently in would be an insult to their legacy. I say ‘currently’ because there is no reason it should remain that way.”

I agree, the arches shouldn’t have fallen into disrepair to begin with… but removing them would be sacrilegious. Perhaps there is hope on the horizon, as “Reimagining Niagara Falls City Market” is a plan set forth by the Regional Revitalization Partnership (RRP) – a partnership between Empire State Development, local governments, and several WNY foundations. The final report from the RRP mentions twice that, “Little Italy [is] not delivering on its brand promise.” 

One of the key findings of the RRP report is that, “‘Little Italy’ [is] losing its strength as a brand although continue[s] honoring the neighborhood’s history and Italian assets”. The report also mentions “There is currently not signage designed to direct tourists to The City Market.” I guess this matter isn’t as urgent to Mayor Restaino as renaming a portion of Main Street “Gene Simmons Boulevard.” The total cost of the project is estimated at $31.8 million and it is expected to be completed by September 2027.

Another Italian business owner on Pine Avenue told me, “I stay because of what you’re talking about… because of Gabe Porto’s book, and what he was talking about. Because of those arches. But it hurts me every day to see the condition of Little Italy today.” The same person also said, “I never see the cops in here. They’re never walking the beat here and they should be.” 

The food in Little Italy is among the best local cuisine that Niagara Falls has to offer. Aside from Viola’s and Marketside, other Italian-owned restaurants include Michael’s (try the beans and greens) and LaHacienda Ristorante (which was rescued by the Satarian family in 2018). Both of these restaurants are right next door to each other, and both provide stellar food and service.

Across the street is Latina’s Importing and Scipione’s deli, where my grandmother used to source her ingredients for all of her homemade meals. Another Italian-owned staple is Fortuna’s restaurant which is on 19th Street, just off of Pine Avenue. Family owned since 1945, I often recommend Fortuna’s to out-of-town visitors if they’re looking for fine dining (but I warn them not to go the other way on 19th street and Pine Ave towards Ferry). If they want pizza, I send them to LaHacienda for a thin crust New York Style pie.

Although these brave business owners are still fighting for Little Italy, what remains today is only a shadow of what it was during its heyday.

The longest chapter in “Memoirs of an Italian American” is titled “Pine Avenue”. While Gabriel Porto does discuss mafioso Stefano Maggadino, he doesn’t mention the types of crime that we are all so used to today. He doesn’t mention robberies, vehicle theft, stick-ups, gang violence, shoot outs or anything of this sort. He reminisces about a simpler time when people in the Falls were happier. Back when Pine Avenue was cleaner and people could leave their front doors unlocked at all hours.

Many locals joke that Niagara Falls was much safer when it was run by the mafia. My own grandfather used to say, “There are two types of Italians in Niagara Falls. Those who run city hall and the other ones. And if you’re ever wondering, we’re the other ones.” He also used to remark, “The mafia never died, it just became the state.”

Gabriel Porto passed away in December of 2023. Thankfully, he left us his memoirs through which we can all experience a time when Little Italy was flourishing. Hopefully it will soon rise from the ashes and reclaim its rightful prominence in our community. If it’s anything like our resilient immigrant ancestors, Little Italy will live to fight another day.